The island of Capri is indeed a paradise. It takes some work to arrive here. My advice and first impression are below.
If you’d like to spend a lazy few days enjoying paradise, here is how to do it:
Ferry as fast as you can from Naples, move past the churning mechanics of the front bay — do not eat in the cafés or buy your blue grotto tickets. Taxi upwards or take the funicular to arrive at the central plaza. Now, pass the glittering luxury shops and rush to the Southern and Eastern sides.
On this side a remarkable tranquility resides. The seagulls chirp, the air is fresh with jasmine and plumeria. The faint whisper of the ocean casts its spell. Go take a nap in white linen sheets. Sip a glass of wine or a cappuccino. Sit by a pool and relax. The choice is yours, but whatever you do, do it slowly.
There is no rushing on Capri. Many of the local residents have lived their entire lives here and they have a routine and community that tourists can participate in, if only on the surface.
The Caprican is not a snobby or showy type. They are modest of dress and traditional in the sense that customs of etiquette and family are followed. By etiquette I mean warm greetings in the morning and evening time, respect for the role of the family and appreciation for good food.
I arrived ready for glamorous evenings. Instead I found that my day was so full of physical exertion (hiking to Villa Jovis, following the winding path that leads to the Arc, visiting Marina Piccola) that by dinner time, my hair was a mess, my body laden with sweat and I had to tame an appetite starving for a full meal.
Our hotel host guided us to a set of restaurants “under the arc” that may have well been code for “under the radar.” I do not remember the names of these restaurants, but they were delicious and comfortable.
Capri is a luxurious little island with a casual attitude. A return visit is definitely required. Next I hope to explore Anacapri.